Archive for November, 2005

Kenyan - Tanzanian Border Musings




Arusha waterfall

Originally uploaded by Learning The World.

Red and white clothed Masai sit on a corner on the Kenyan side of the
border gazing up to the impressive sunset silohette of Kilimanjaro.

Women in their black burka’s tend to their shops. Currency traders
watch the border traffic and clients willing to dispose or buy
currency below market rates. Modern Tanzanian and Kenya’s cross each
others border in this peaceful zone of East Africa.

Our bus moves in 50 metre increments from custom house to custom house and gate to gate. We move closer to Nairobi and our flight to Joburg and its harrowing reputation. Our five weeks in Kenya and Tanzania have made a natural, modern yet tribal mark on our traveling souls.

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Descending from one Tanzanian Mountain Range




a glimpse of kili

Originally uploaded by Learning The World.

The sun rises around us illuminating mountain side farms as far as
the eye can see. Afro arab hip hop lubricates our hiking weary legs
as we desend out of the lush Umbaroto Mountains. We are fortunate to
have grabbed two seats in the genorosly named VIP coaches. The bus
stops quickly and we are met by a friendly throng of vendors selling
peaches, nuts, buscuits, carrots, tomatoes and skewers of meat. The
bus fills up to capacity and we are off to Moshi for larger views of
Kilimanjaro. Tanzania is tantilizing us travelers and we are planning
a return later in life to further our explorations in this eco-tourism mecca of East Africa.

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North to Nungwi Beach Zanzibar




voting day in zanzibar

Originally uploaded by Learning The World.

Our drive to Nungwi was dominated by electioneering celebrations and posters. The winning party CCM has ruled Zanzibar for 41 years, since their first year of Independence from Britain, and the authenticity of their re-election into power is questionable. On the drive through, Zanzibar town was deserted except for thousands of soldiers and a tank equipped with water gun designed to disperse protesters with its red chilly laced water. Tanzania is the darling of foreign donors considering their stable government. These Zanzibarian islanders are bitter towards mainlanders who they see as absorbing a greater share of the government spending. From what we’ve seen of the Tanzanian mainland, the Zanzibarians are mistaken in their envy of the mainland as their highways, power supply and water is of similar quality. The Zanzibarians are justified in their call for election reform as political parties have no limit on campaign spending and no requirements to report their campaign spending. The winning party CCM outspend their opponent CUF at least 25-1 with full colour posters, banners, offices and even sari’s warn by women but they won by a slight margin - 53% to 46%.

Considering we’re missing a municipal and federal election in Canada, it has been a treat to witness an East African election.

(photo: voting card and thumb ink of CCM supporter)

We are now wrapping up our island time and heading inland towards Moshi and Mt. Kilimanjaro. It will be tough to view the famous mount and not begin the trek up to the top of Africa. Another time as a week on the price of the accent might douse our entire Australian dream.

To fulfilling dreams,
DK & Char

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Habari a lieo! (Good Day!)




snorkelling in jambiani

Originally uploaded by Learning The World.

Back to Nairobi and on through the night on an ill repaired 40 year old horrid highway to the Indian Ocean and Mombasa. Mombasa was pleasant enough for being the largest port city in East Africa but the billboard sized messages on the side of a mosque “Allah is great. Allah is the only God” gave us food for thought. Religion can be inspiring and frightening at the same time. After contemplating a trip to the Kenyan beaches of Lamu, Tiwi and Watamu, we decided to push on to Zanzibar in Tanzania.

Zanzibar has delivered on its lofty reputation with bleached white sand and turquoise waters. Our daily routine has consisted of travelling early on a traditional wooden dhow out to the reef for some snorkeling and feasting on a plate of tuna, snapper, king fish and barracuda in the evening.

We’ve met and travelled along with some delightful people (Italians, Israelis, South Africans, UKers) but were thoroughly disappointed by a particular pathologically lying Kenyan. Oh well, always learning.

We left our quaint beach house with its henna and massage services in Jambiani for the slightly more up tempo Nungwi.

DK & Char

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Kenyan Safari Adventure




simba-ess

Originally uploaded by Learning The World.

Well we’re closing in on 50 days on the road. Kenya and Tanzania have treated us well and our photos will tell most of the stories. The Kenyan Safari through the Masai Mara National Reserve and Lake Nakuru National Park took us to another world. Safaris are a wildlife feast for the eyes but a highlight was a safari on foot just outside the main reserve with a spear wielding Masai. Of the 42 tribes in Kenya the Masai with their red wool garments and cattle herding ways have maintained their historical roots more so than other tribes. Masai wealth is based on the number of cattle they own and they turn their nose at eating fish and vegetables. Thus after our safari experience we settled down to camp on the shoreline of Lake Elementita, one of the world’s largest flamingo breeding grounds. The spectacle of hundreds of thousands of pink flamingos taking flight with old volcanic cones of the Rift Valley in the background is an image that will be forever etched in our minds.

For more photos of our safari adventure visit www.flickr.com/photos/learningtheworld

Kwa Heri (until next time)!
DK & Char

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